On the train south of Danang, June 4th

People have told me that Vietnam is one of the most beautiful countries and now I see why. The view from the window is dreamlike with the sun rising over low lying mountains, rice paddies and palm trees. A thousand shades of green.

I am in a sleeping berth that has six beds (straw mats actually), three on each side. The Vietnamese American businessman opposite me resembles the smiling jade Buddha around his neck. He's been living in Texas for close to twenty years and operates a chain of grocery stores there. Shortly after boarding the train he excused himself, slipped into his blue and white pajamas and brought out the dried squid and beer. The smell of the fish and cigarette smoke is still in my clothes. Finally after seventeen hours we made it to Danang. On the train I met some travelers I had first seen in Saigon and Dalat. We were all very hot and tired from the trip and didn't want to waste any time in Danang. All eight of us shared a van for the 30 km trip south to Hoi An.

Hoi An, June 5th

What a glorious town. Hoi An is a jewel. The old temples, narrow winding streets and architecture are strongly influenced by the Chinese. The street along the Thu Bon river is lined with pleasant outdoor restaurants, one after the other. At night all of the travelers are out strolling and eating. A very civilized scene.

Vietnam is a relatively easy place to travel in. The Vietnamese business people have a keen sense for the kinds of services that tourists come to expect. They have it very together, especially considering how recently the country has opened up. It feels like the perfect time to be here. Only a year ago I heard it was much more difficult to get around. You had to go through all sorts of of red tape and bureaucracy to visit certain towns.

Hoi An, June 6th

The government run hotel I am staying in is very impressive. Originally built by the French, it has beautiful tiled floors and 14-foot ceilings. During the war it was used as a Marine base.

After my trip yesterday visiting the ruins at My Son with a group of travelers from Europe, the States and Brazil, I am exhausted and quite content to just hole up in my room with a book and the fan turned up. It's over 100 degrees outside.

It struck me this morning at the market, with all of the women wearing those conical hats. Twenty-five years ago we in America were haunted by these faces that we'd watch every night on the six o'clock news. Being here now, seeing and meeting the Vietnamese seems to cleanse that memory. Maybe it's easy for me to say, since I didn't have to fight or defend myself from the horror back then.

Saigon
Dalat 1 | 2
Nha Trang
Hoi Ann
Hue
Hanoi 1 | 2
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