Hoi An, June 7th

At six o'clock in the morning it isn't uncommon to see large groups of men in cafes, sitting around and watching super-violent American movies. It gives me a weird sensation walking by. One wonders what they imagine life in the States, or Americans, to be like?

This afternoon I took a walk on the other side of the Thu Bon river. It's like another world from Hoi An: very rural, dirt paths and tall trees. It reminds me of Bali. The people living here don't look Vietnamese but more like part of a hilltribe. Their dialect even has a different sound to it.

Since arriving in Vietnam I've seen quite a few Amerasians; their features are uncanny. I havn't had the courage to take any photos. Maybe it's American guilt but it strikes a strange emotion, like it could be any of us. This afternoon a young Amerasian guy rode by on a bike and after noticing me pulled over to where I was standing. He had a big tattoo on his arm that said "Let's go". I fought the urge to hold back and picked up my camera to take a few frames.

Hue, June 8th

My first stop in Hue is the Lac Thanh Resturant. I have heard through other travelers that it is one of the best places in Vietnam. The owner Mr. Lac and his daughters make me feel right at home. Lac is a deaf-mute and seems telepathic. After a fantastic lunch of fresh fish and noodles I found a place to stay down the street. It's the first privately-owned hotel I have stayed in. There are lots of these mini-hotels which have opened in the past few years.

Hue was the capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945 and suffered from some of the heaviest fighting during what's known as the "American War". In the 1968 Tet offensive it was the only South Vietnamese city to be held by the Communists for more then a few days. During the few weeks of their reign several thousand civilians, including Buddhist monks and Catholic priests, were killed and buried in mass graves.

Despite its historical significance, Hue doesn't impress me like some of the other places I've seen these past two weeks. The streets aren't as conducive to walking, probably because it's a walled imperial city never made for commoners to stroll around in.

Hue, June 9th

Early morning walk along the Perfume River. Women in straw hats, hauling food stalls balanced on poles on their shoulders, are setting up for business. Images can be deceiving, even with documentary work. From a distance and with the right kind of light and lens, you can make almost anything seem seductive. But if you move in closer, without composing the elements in an artistic manner, the picture you see is not a very pretty one.

Docked along the river many of the houseboats look like they are about to sink. I hear the sound of loud music. A man is pushing a cart with a boom box attached to it. He stops and a crowd gathers around. He takes out what looks like some sort of gun and pierces the ears of an infant.

Everyone is exceptionally friendly and curious. Their first question is always "What do you think of our country?" One wonders what the Vietnamese really say to each other regarding foreigners. I keep reminding myself that I am still in the south, which was once our ally. It will be interesting to see what happens in Hanoi.

Saigon
Dalat 1 | 2
Nha Trang
Hoi Ann
Hue
Hanoi 1 | 2
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